After having linked Moongoli in two halfs on my first session, I was
keen to get back on it beforeitwas time to leaveÅlandfor now. So on our last day we went for an
early start in order to get a couple of hours at Kasviken and still
make it back to Mariehamn in time for our ferries departur. However,
driving the 45 minutes from Eriks cabin to the crag, I could tell
something was not right with my van. But pscyhed about my project, I
choosed too ignore it. If only then I would have known that we would only make it to about five kilometers from the boulders. From there it took us two towings, before getting picked up in Mariestad (two hours away from home), where we had to leave the car at a garage in the middle of the night.
Hannes and Jocke giving up the idea of climbing in the prevailing heat and jumps in the water instead. An idea which I, due to the time of the year, assume solvedtheirsweating-issues. For me, just watching them was enough to stop my hands from seeping.
I was very happy to get to be a part of the celebrations of the Swedish climbing association's fortieth anniversary. Me and Robert where stationed in Häller to serve as inspirers and beta-banks for thoose who had come to climb.However, since it was the probably warmest day of the year so far, no one but us where dumb enough to even try climbing at the sundrenched crag and we ended up having to throw our beta and inspiration back and forth between eachother.
Robban getting his crackclimbing-skills on, doing Z-sprickan.
Me trying to escape the heat on Cuerpo the hombre, which even though it doesn't see any sun all day, still was to greasy for me to repeat it. Photo: Jonas Paulsson.
The other day, I did what I believe is the second ascent of this stunning climb at Lyse Kyrka. It was first put up by Henrik Sennelöv in the autumn of 2007. I tried it a couple of years ago, without coming anywhere near close and ever since then, I haven't been back. Until this weekend that is, when my visiting friend Geir and I went and had a play on it. I think what kept me from doing it already then was the warm, sunny weather making the crux-crimp to greasy for me to hold when doing the dyno to the arete.
Screenshot from Tuesdays filming.
After getting back from work earlier than usual on Tuesday afternoon, me and Victor decided to go climbing and Victor convinced me to go back to Lyse. On our way out, we where met by a cold front of clouds and winds coming in from the nearby ocean. A sight that filled me with hope and optimism. At location, after a couple of goes with long rest in between them in order to keep the skin cold, I stuck the crux-move for the first time and topped out En världsomsegling under havet.