Tierra spring & summer catalog 2013

I am very proud to have contributed to the new Tierra spring & summer catalog. Check it out and flick to page 26 to read my article about Albarracin!

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L'Apparemment 8A, Apremont Envers

I think it´s rare to find moves like them on L'Apparemment outdoors. To me it feels more like climbing on a crowdpleaser-competition 

problem, rather than using the right beta for a Fontainebleau climb.

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Forêt Noire 7A

The other day, me and my visiting friend Henrik Sennelöv, was shown by Neil to this amazing slab in Beauvais. After first having cleaned the thing, that didn't seem to have been climbed on in ages, I managed to work out a sequence with which I could do the problem. Pure joy is a good way of describing what I felt, both during and after my ascent. Undoubtedly one of the best slabs I have ever climbed.

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A hidden gem

La Cage aux Fauves in Coquibus Arcades can probably be considered a hidden gem since I don't think it sees allot of traffic, despite the fact that it's a beautiful line. The picture is showing Fredrik Sydstrand making the second move on it.

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NoNameYet, Rocher Fin

Bart van Raaij doing the hardest single move of NoNameYet in Rocher Fin.

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Barbizon

 

 Not that any of the villages around Fontainebleau is particularly low class, but if 
you want be in the crème de la crème, Barbizon is the place to go...

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Hitting the slot

Simon doing the second move on Djembé 7C.

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Hard work

 

Joel working hard to find a sequence with which he'll be able to climb L'Angle Ben's 7A+ in Franchard Isatis.

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Sydde

I am very impressed by how Fredrik Sydstrand is climbing. Not only is he really strong, but also fast, accurate and techniqual in his climbing. Using this combination of skills, he makes it look like he's running up pretty much every problem (or at least the ones I´ve seen him climb). I am stooked now that he and Jenny is here to spend their parental leave, since it hopefully means that I will get to climb and hang out more with them...

Fredrik trying Cœur d'Alien in Rocher Cailleau

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La Grande Marche 7A+

Martin Idegren figuring out in which order to move his hands up the crack on La grande marche.

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A place to stay

If you are having trouble finding somewhere to stay in Font, I can recommend you looking up this cozy caravan. An affordable accommodation 
in a charming environment, only steps away from the boulders in Gorge aux châts.

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Video - Autopilot 7B+, Chironico

Climbing can be frustrating sometimes. The first problem we did during our weekend trip to Ticino in October, was Autopilot in Chironico. Even though it climbed well, I wasn't to happy with having to try it as many times as I did, before getting my self to pull my long legs high enough to not dab the boulder you are swinging over when doing the cruxmove. (I hope however, that no one takes me to serious with what I'm saying in the interview that opens the video...)

Featured problem:

Autopilot 7B+ - Chironico, Switzerland
 

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Camera:

Neil Hart

In association with:

Tierra

Fiveten

The Geckoworld

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Coquibus-classic

Simon climbing Tonnerre de Brest 7B in Coquibus Longs Vaux.

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Herbeauvilliers

Some pictures from a morning-walk in what can be considered my 

"home-town" at the moment.

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Fata Morgana 8A

Tristan Salson trying Fata Morgana in Coquibus Longs Vaux.

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Djembé 7C

Simon working Djembé in Côtes de Courances.

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Finally some dry rock

Tristan and I played a safe card the other day, going to Rempart where we knew the boulders where 

most likely to have dried up in the sun that appeared for the first time in what feels like an eternity. 

As did Joe Le Sage, who we met by the Big 4. Here he is trying Atresie.

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Mémoire d'Outre Tombe 7A+

Neil on Mémoire d'Outre Tombe 7A+ in Rocher Fin.

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September outtakes - Albarracin

I am not sure if you can actually call this an outtakes video since it's no different from the other short's that I am posting. The reason to why I came up with the name in the first place, is that it contains some problems that I climbed during my stay in September, but wheren't able to fit in the first video I made, and therefore I consider these clips outtakes.

Regardless of the name, I hope you will enjoy seeing some more footage from my September stay in Albarracin...

Featured problems:
El plus del autobús sit 7B - La Fuente

Air France 6C+ - Tierra Media

Percebe conection 7A - Psicokiller
Quebrantamentes sit 7B+ - Techos

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Camera:
Daniel Olausson
Martin Kluibenschädl

Neil Hart

Music:
Brad Sucks - "There's something wrong"

In association with:
Tierra
The Gecko world

Fiveten

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Aeroline 7A-7C

Neil reaching around the lip for the second hold of Aeroline in Albarracin.

 

The first problem I've ever seen get different grades in the same 

guidebook based on how tall you are.

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Rainuary - A weather post

We are already a month into the new year and 2013 hasn't taken off in a great way for me. Of the two previous january months I've spent in this forrest, weather-wise, one was great and the other one not so great. The bad one was in 2010, when it snowed every other day, mixed with rain on the in between ones. If it wasn't for the fact that I took the shoot of returning the following year, and ended up not regreting my choice, I would probably not have risked starting yet another year with being sat snowed in a gite. Unfortunately the saying, third time lucky, doesn't seem to apply on weather in Font, since this January isn't adding to theese statistics in a positive way. We haven't had allot of snow, but the amount of downfall that didn't come in frozen form came down as rain instead.

At first I felt really psyched to be back here after christmas, but after the first week of driving around looking for dry rock, that psych was gone with the wind. I have allways had a hard time sitting still, and there is nothing I hate more than being on a climbingtrip, unable to climb due to bad weather.

Chris, who I'm sharing the gite with, escaped to Switzerland a couple of weeks ago, whilst I stayed here and bought a membership to the climbinggym in Arbonne. His choice seems to have been the wiser, since he's ended up sending several Ticino-testpieces, like Amber, Vecchia Leone and The Dagger. However, after feeling superweak when I returned from my christmasbreak, I feel that the sessions in the gym has done me good, and I do not regret my choice to stay here. Hopefully the milage that I have done on the wall, which I find is hard to get outdoors, will benefit me later during the spring.

Now I am keeping my fingers crossed for weather to act up during February, which is as long as my stay in this gite lasts. After that I'm moving back into my car and haven't really decided on what I am doing. For now, I am happy to leave that open and cross the bridge when I come to it, seeing what forecast for different areas around Europe is like at the time. I would really like to go back to Albarracin, and to Switzerland. At the same time I know there will be tons of stuff left that I want to try around here, and since March is a month that has never made me disapointed when it comes to weather here, I will probably be tempted to stick around for a while longer. The only thing I know for sure is that there will be far from enough time for me to do all the things I would like, before I have to go back to Sweden for another summer of intense work...


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Monos stand 7C

Neil doing the second of two hard moves on Monos stand 7C in Psicokiller/Acantilados.

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Video - Symbiose gauche 7C

Bart van Raaij, author of the greatly appreciated guidebooks "Straight ups in Fontainebleau" (5+6 and 7+8), climbing Symbiose gauche in 95.2.

Featured problem:

Symbiose gauche 7C - 95.2 
 

Climber in video:
Bart van Raaij

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Camera:

Daniel Olausson

In association with:

Tierra

Fiveten

The Geckoworld

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