Z-sprickan 7B

Thomas Schermer trying Z-sprickan 7B, Häller

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Z-sprickan 7B, Häller

Photos: Henrik Hult.

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Video - Whippin up the westcoast

I normally have a hard time making it out to the rocks during the summer months due to spending most of my time working. I try to stay in shape by training on my home wall, and look at the time as a yearly brake from pushing myself to send. However, at some occations I find my way to the crags nearby my home. This summer, I acctaully even made it up a couple of problems I've been wanting to do for a long time, along with repeating some old classics for the camera. Some of them ended up in this edit.

Featured problems:
Mon gôut 7B+, Ulorna
Shelter 7B+, Tjörn
En världsomsegling under havet 7C, Lyse kyrka (sec. ascent)
Z-sprickan 7B, Häller
Dogma 7A, Häller

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Music:
"Nevermore" by The soundtrack of our lives
"Streets of the unknown" by Machinimasound

Camera
Thomas Schermer

Victor Lindqvist
Daniel Olausson

Produced in association with:
Tierra
Fiveten

Boulderkeskus

Revolution

Lyofood

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Ulorna beachplay

Thomas Schermer climbing Global warming on one of the boulders at the beach in Ulorna.

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Z-sprickan

Photos: Henrik Hult.

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The equivalent to my anti-syle

 

Wish I had better stamina and knew how to handjam. If I would, Z-sprickan would probably not feel anywhere near as challenging 
as it does with my current set of skills.

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Unknown Häller-lowball

Victor Lindqvist doing the first move of a problem in Häller which I do not know name of (perhaps it doesn't even have one).

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Handjam dynoing

Olle Ringstedt flying up Z-sprickan in Häller.

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Dogma 7A, Bohuslän

Robert Rundin pushing his way up the classic chimney-boulder in Häller.

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Z-sprickan, Häller

Not knowing how to handjam, climbing Z-sprickan means a big challange to me. Photos: Henrik Hult.

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Groovesprickan 6A+, Bohuslän

Olle Ringstedt on his way up Groovesprickan in Häller.

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Horse with no name 6A, Häller

Robert Rundin raising his feet on the problem formerly known as Okänd slab (Unknown slab).

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Skinny dipping

Hannes and Jocke giving up the idea of climbing in the prevailing heat and jumps in the water instead. An idea which I, due to the time of the year, assume solved their sweating-issues. For me, just watching them was enough to stop my hands from seeping.

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Different choices in footwear

Victor and Henrik doing a problem in Häller which I don't know the name of. Henrik being the one too lazy to put on his climbingshoes.

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Dogma 7A

Victor Lindqvist working Dogma in Häller. Photo: Henrik Hult.

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The 40th anniversary of the Swedish climbing association

I was very happy to get to be a part of the celebrations of the Swedish climbing association's fortieth anniversary. Me and Robert where stationed in Häller to serve as inspirers and beta-banks for thoose who had come to climb. However, since it was the probably warmest day of the year so far, no one but us where dumb enough to even try climbing at the sundrenched crag and we ended up having to throw our beta and inspiration back and forth between eachother.

Robban getting his crackclimbing-skills on, doing Z-sprickan.

Me trying to escape the heat on Cuerpo the hombre, which even though it doesn't see any sun all day, 
still was to greasy for me to repeat it. Photo: Jonas Paulsson.

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En världsomsegling under havet, Lyse Kyrka

Photo: Fredrik Jutfelt

The other day, I did what I believe is the second ascent of this stunning climb at Lyse Kyrka. It was first put up by Henrik Sennelöv in the autumn of 2007. I tried it a couple of years ago, without coming anywhere near close and ever since then, I haven't been back. Until this weekend that is, when my visiting friend Geir and I went and had a play on it. I think what kept me from doing it already then was the warm, sunny weather making the crux-crimp to greasy for me to hold when doing the dyno to the arete.

Screenshot from Tuesdays filming.

After getting back from work earlier than usual on Tuesday afternoon, me and Victor decided to go climbing and Victor convinced me to go back to Lyse. On our way out, we where met by a cold front of clouds and winds coming in from the nearby ocean. A sight that filled me with hope and optimism. At location, after a couple of goes with long rest in between them in order to keep the skin cold, I stuck the crux-move for the first time and topped out En världsomsegling under havet.

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Betavideo - Flykten från jordens medelpunkt 6C, Lyse

Betavideo of Flykten från jordens medelpunkt 6C in Lyse, Bohuslän.

Climber: Daniel Olausson
Edit: Daniel OIausson
Camera: Fredrik Schenholm

Make sure to visit:
www.Schenholm.com

The Geckoworld

Fiveten

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Betavideo - Hunter S Thomson 7A+, Sivik

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