Dynamo

All the hard training Tom and William had put in during the winter paid off all ready on their first day on rock this season. Stoked after just having reached new levels by sending Rabies, their first ever 7a, they jump straight on Dynamo to see if 7a+ was also within reach. Which off course it was, but just not on that very same day...

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Dynamo 7a

William Falkenström giving his last efforts working Dynamo 7a at the end of a long day at Rabiesväggen.

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Fighting Rabies

Tom Boholm climbing Rabies 7a in Fjällbo (The most urban Gothenburg ropeclimbing-crag, situated just outside the city center).

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For old time sake

Few climbers I've met are bursting with such passion and energy at the rocks, as Said. Just the fact that he climbs more than hundred routes 8a and above every year, I think speaks for itself. Last week, while paying a short visit in his old hometown, he spent an afternoon at Hyltebergen repeating his training-circuit from back in the day. A bunch of sevens and a couple of eights, in between sushi in the sun and dinner at his mom's place, is a pace one can only dream of keeping up with.

Said Belhaj repeating Forex 8a, for old time sake.

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Video - Island fun

Now that school is no longer keeping me busy, I can start editing videos again. But in order to do so, I need material, which there isn't lots of since I haven't climbed much outdoors all autumn, let alone filmed. However, some of the footage Thomas and I gathered during his visit in August, did not fit in to the first video I made. Using that, I have put together this short with four problems from the Islands of Öckerö, outside Gothenburg.

The two songs in the video are by Andreas Åhlfeldt, who has produced music for many great climbing videos such as Progression and First ascent. Make sure to visit his site and listen to his other great tunes.

Featured problems:
Den gamle och havet 7B+, Hönö
Jänkarproblemet 7B, Öckerö

Lamborghini 6B+, Öckerö

Full pull 7A, Hönö

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Music:
"A-M K" & "6-8 4-4"

by Andreas beats

Camera
Thomas Schermer

Daniel Olausson

Produced in association with:
Tierra
Fiveten

Boulderkeskus

Revolution

Lyofood

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Young man by the sea

Thomas Schermer trying Den gamle och havet (The old man and the sea) at Hönö, outside Gothenburg.

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Jänkarproblemet, Öckerö

 

At the end of August, Thomas Schermer visited me for a couple of days for us to go out and take photos around my home turf. Most of the times it was me doing the climbing while he was behind the camera, but at a couple of times the roles changed. Here he is about to send Jänkarproblemet.

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True determination

For a couple of years now, I have followed my close friend Henrik Sennelöv through motivation mixed with frustration, while batteling with one of his big projects. Not only has it meant a physical challenge, but due to the problem being extremly sensitive to rain since water keeps pooring down it long after even the smallest shower, it has required incredible patience from Henrik. When forecasts has been looking promising, he has been in standby mode to go out as soon as weather has allowed. Allot of the times he has arrived at the crag only to discover the problem being impossible to try.

Thank's to a dry summer and autumn, Henrik has been able to try his project more frequently than before, and yesterday I recieved a text-message from him saying: "Finally sent it, on my last try before I had to leave for picking up the kids at daycare..." Congratulations Henrik on a great addition to the westcoast-bouldering!


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Den gamle och havet

 

 Thomas Schermer trying Den gamle och havet on Hönö.

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