Friday, February 15, 2013
Video - Autopilot 7B+, Chironico
Climbing can be frustrating sometimes. The first problem we did during our weekend trip to Ticino in October, was Autopilot in Chironico. Even though it climbed well, I wasn't to happy with having to try it as many times as I did, before getting my self to pull my long legs high enough to not dab the boulder you are swinging over when doing the cruxmove. (I hope however, that no one takes me to serious with what I'm saying in the interview that opens the video...)
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Herbeauvilliers
Some pictures from a morning-walk in what can be considered my
"home-town" at the moment.
/DO
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
Monday, February 11, 2013
Friday, February 8, 2013
Finally some dry rock
Tristan and I played a safe card the other day, going to Rempart where we knew the boulders where
most likely to have dried up in the sun that appeared for the first time in what feels like an eternity.
As did Joe Le Sage, who we met by the Big 4. Here he is trying Atresie.
/DO
Thursday, February 7, 2013
Tuesday, February 5, 2013
September outtakes - Albarracin
I am not sure if you can actually call this an outtakes video since it's no different from the other short's that I am posting. The reason to why I came up with the name in the first place, is that it contains some problems that I climbed during my stay in September, but wheren't able to fit in the first video I made, and therefore I consider these clips outtakes.
Regardless of the name, I hope you will enjoy seeing some more footage from my September stay in Albarracin...
Regardless of the name, I hope you will enjoy seeing some more footage from my September stay in Albarracin...
Featured problems:
El plus del autobús sit 7B - La Fuente
El plus del autobús sit 7B - La Fuente
Air France 6C+ - Tierra Media
Percebe conection 7A - Psicokiller
Quebrantamentes sit 7B+ - Techos
Quebrantamentes sit 7B+ - Techos
Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson
Daniel Olausson
Edit:
Daniel Olausson
Daniel Olausson
Camera:
Daniel Olausson
Martin Kluibenschädl
Daniel Olausson
Martin Kluibenschädl
Neil Hart
Music:
Brad Sucks - "There's something wrong"
Brad Sucks - "There's something wrong"
/DO
Monday, February 4, 2013
Aeroline 7A-7C
Neil reaching around the lip for the second hold of Aeroline in Albarracin.
The first problem I've ever seen get different grades in the same
guidebook based on how tall you are.
Sunday, February 3, 2013
Rainuary - A weather post
We are already a month into the new year and 2013 hasn't taken off in a great way for me. Of the two previous january months I've spent in this forrest, weather-wise, one was great and the other one not so great. The bad one was in 2010, when it snowed every other day, mixed with rain on the in between ones. If it wasn't for the fact that I took the shoot of returning the following year, and ended up not regreting my choice, I would probably not have risked starting yet another year with being sat snowed in a gite. Unfortunately the saying, third time lucky, doesn't seem to apply on weather in Font, since this January isn't adding to theese statistics in a positive way. We haven't had allot of snow, but the amount of downfall that didn't come in frozen form came down as rain instead.
At first I felt really psyched to be back here after christmas, but after the first week of driving around looking for dry rock, that psych was gone with the wind. I have allways had a hard time sitting still, and there is nothing I hate more than being on a climbingtrip, unable to climb due to bad weather.
Chris, who I'm sharing the gite with, escaped to Switzerland a couple of weeks ago, whilst I stayed here and bought a membership to the climbinggym in Arbonne. His choice seems to have been the wiser, since he's ended up sending several Ticino-testpieces, like Amber, Vecchia Leone and The Dagger. However, after feeling superweak when I returned from my christmasbreak, I feel that the sessions in the gym has done me good, and I do not regret my choice to stay here. Hopefully the milage that I have done on the wall, which I find is hard to get outdoors, will benefit me later during the spring.
Now I am keeping my fingers crossed for weather to act up during February, which is as long as my stay in this gite lasts. After that I'm moving back into my car and haven't really decided on what I am doing. For now, I am happy to leave that open and cross the bridge when I come to it, seeing what forecast for different areas around Europe is like at the time. I would really like to go back to Albarracin, and to Switzerland. At the same time I know there will be tons of stuff left that I want to try around here, and since March is a month that has never made me disapointed when it comes to weather here, I will probably be tempted to stick around for a while longer. The only thing I know for sure is that there will be far from enough time for me to do all the things I would like, before I have to go back to Sweden for another summer of intense work...
/DO
At first I felt really psyched to be back here after christmas, but after the first week of driving around looking for dry rock, that psych was gone with the wind. I have allways had a hard time sitting still, and there is nothing I hate more than being on a climbingtrip, unable to climb due to bad weather.
Chris, who I'm sharing the gite with, escaped to Switzerland a couple of weeks ago, whilst I stayed here and bought a membership to the climbinggym in Arbonne. His choice seems to have been the wiser, since he's ended up sending several Ticino-testpieces, like Amber, Vecchia Leone and The Dagger. However, after feeling superweak when I returned from my christmasbreak, I feel that the sessions in the gym has done me good, and I do not regret my choice to stay here. Hopefully the milage that I have done on the wall, which I find is hard to get outdoors, will benefit me later during the spring.
Now I am keeping my fingers crossed for weather to act up during February, which is as long as my stay in this gite lasts. After that I'm moving back into my car and haven't really decided on what I am doing. For now, I am happy to leave that open and cross the bridge when I come to it, seeing what forecast for different areas around Europe is like at the time. I would really like to go back to Albarracin, and to Switzerland. At the same time I know there will be tons of stuff left that I want to try around here, and since March is a month that has never made me disapointed when it comes to weather here, I will probably be tempted to stick around for a while longer. The only thing I know for sure is that there will be far from enough time for me to do all the things I would like, before I have to go back to Sweden for another summer of intense work...
/DO
Saturday, February 2, 2013
Monos stand 7C
Neil doing the second of two hard moves on Monos stand 7C in Psicokiller/Acantilados.
/DO
Friday, February 1, 2013
Video - Symbiose gauche 7C
Bart van Raaij, author of the greatly appreciated guidebooks "Straight ups in Fontainebleau" (5+6 and 7+8), climbing Symbiose gauche in 95.2.
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