A learning experience

Time flies here in the US. Tomorrow it has already been a week since we arrived and each day has so far been an adventure. The first couple of days we where hanging out around Boulder, climbing in Cleer creak canyon and Eldorado canyon. It was good to get the body going a bit and shake some of the jetlag.

 

Said catching up with Christian Griffith on a walk between the Verve office and Christians house in Eldorado canyon.

Said has been introducing me to many interesting people. Supermotivated climbers who are dedicating their whole lifes to the rocks. For some, this devotion has turned them in to legends as they have been part of making the sport (or whatever it is) what it is today. Meeting these guy's and being at the crags around here, is definetely giving me some perspective of things. Seing how strong people are is mindblowing to say the least. It's also really fun to watch Said climb. I'm sorry to say that I believe the Swedish climbing community is not aware of what an incredible athlete we got in this man. 

Sam Elias climbing Slice of life 5.13d/8b (Rifle) on his second attempt.

Over the weekend we payed our first visit to Rifle. A hotspot for sportclimbing in the US. The two days climbing there was humbling for sure. I'd heard a lot about this place, about the very tricky style of climbing which makes it close to impossible to climb well without beta. Due to this I off course tried to lower my expectations, but I guess no matter how hard you try not to put preasure on your self, you will still allways have some hopes on doing well. These hopes of mine however, was brutaly crushed within the first day. I'm not sure if me climbing poorly had much to do with the climbing being harder than in any other crag I've visited for the first time. It allways takes some time to get in to climbing at a new spot and I am really looking forward to returning as I feel this is a place where I can develop a lot as a climber. We'll be going back in a day or two, after having enjoyed some much needed rest back here in Boulder.

Said redpointing Vision thing 5.13b/8a (Rifle).

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USA

After many years of dreaming about climbing in the states, I'm finally here! Not sure how to put down in words how excited I am. Psyched on the climbing off course, but also on exploring the country, meeting new people, picking up tips and tricks from master Said, eating burritos, camping, spotting bears and moutain lions and much, much more.

We arrived here in Boulder CO last night and will be hanging out around here for about one and a half weeks, before driving west through Utah, Idaho and Oregon. I will try to post as much as I can from along the way, but since we'll be spending quite a lot of time living in a tent out in the desert, our internet access will be limited. A part of the trip I'm actually looking forward to quite a bit...


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Christian, Max & Ruby

Christian Merlau working Max & Ruby 7A at Mommehål 2 in Västervik.

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Västervik weekend

Visiting Västervik is allways a pleasure. Not only is there lot's of good climbing, but the suroundings are so nice that just being in the beautiful nature could be worth the trip alone. Over the last weekend I left Stockholm to hang out with my German friends who rented a cabin just south of Västervik. The stay turned out great and I got to spend more time on rock than I've done in total in the last year. As you might understand I was pretty keen and ended up destroying myself already on the first day, repeating old climbs on Fruberget. Apart from that we ended up climbing only in sectors where I had no been. It was interesting to explore some new parts of the area and spot problems that I would like to come back and try when I'm finally recovered from injuries.















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RÖJK SUPERWEAR

I'm proud and excited to announce a newly established collaboration between me and Röjk superwear. A Stockholm based company run by Linus Zetterlund and Jan-Fahrenheit Betros. Two very talented and layed back guys producing some of the most comfortable clothes I've ever tried on. Check out their website to find out more about them and their awesome clothing line, or stayed tuned here for photos and videos of me climbing in the ChillOut pants and SuperBase sweather!

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Dynamische Doppelpack assis 7A

 

Staffan Wahlsten defying mosquitoes and summer heat climbing Dynamische Doppelpack assis 7A in Källberga, Uppsala.

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Wong sai 7B+, Orminge

James Thanawat working Wong sai 7B+...

...and Arvid Holmgren repeating it.

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Flygande kniven 7C, Gävle

Fredrik Sydstrand coming close to flashing Flygande kniven in Oppala. After falling a couple of 

moves from the top, he worked out the beta and climbed it next go.

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Tjing tjong 7C

Arvid Holmgren working Tjing tjong 7C in Orminge.

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James & Arvid hits Orminge

There are better days for climbing on slopy rails than the one Arvid Holmgren and James Thanawat chose to spend in Orminge a couple of weeks ago. In the photos they are struggling on Wong sai 7B+, which Arvid managed to repeat despite the 30 degrees in the shades.

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Video - 2 Font 7A's

I quite like editing, but not climbing or filming outdoors much in the last year, I have to dig deeper and deeper into my archives to find footage that I can play around with. In a dusty folder with stuff gathered during my trip to Fontainebleau in the spring of 2012, I found two problems filmed by Sandstones media which had not been used in any video. Not having much to do the other night, I put them together to make this short...

Featured problems:
Rababoum 7A, Manoury
la Joker 7A, Bas Cuvier

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Camera:
Sandstones media

Music:
"Big easy" by Andreas Öhberg

Produced in association with:
Tierra.se
Revolutionclimbing.eu
Fiveten.com/
shop.boulderkeskus.com/en/
Lyofood.com/

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Erik vs. Tomi

Erik Massih climbing Tomis roof on Åland.

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