Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Mad hooker 7A+, Linköping


 Staffan Wahlsten Mad Hooker 7A+, Knutby
Staffan Wahlsten climbing Mad hooker 7A+ in Knutby outside Linköping.

  
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Friday, April 15, 2016

Slaporama 7A, Bromma

 
Bromma bouldering April 9th -16
Thom Hörnström sticking the first move of Slaporama 7A in Bromma, Stockholm.
 
 
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Wednesday, April 13, 2016

A-team 7C, Rörbo


Staffan Wahlsten "A-team" 7C+
Staffan Wahlsten working A-team 7C in Rörbo. 


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Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Underdog, Jumkil


Olof Norin "Underdog" 7B
Olof Norin trying Underdog 7B(ish) in Jumkil, Uppsala.


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Thursday, March 31, 2016

The great hassel, Källberga


Staffan Wahlsten, The great hassel

Staffan Wahlsten, The great hassel
Staffan Wahlsten climbing The great hassel in Källberga outside Uppsala.


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Monday, March 28, 2016

Pasila invitational

Last week I visited my friends at Boulderkeskus in Helsinki. I was there to set boulders for Pasila invitational (Finish boulder league final) together with Tonde Katiyo,  Rustam Gelmanov and local setters Olli Antikainen, Anssi Venho and Marko Siivinen. It was a very good experience in many ways. I learned a lot working with these guys and gathered tons of inspiration for future work. Alvi Pakarinen put together a very nice video about the event. Check it out:



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Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Red hot 7B+, Uppsala


Red hot 7B+ Fredrik Nilsson
Fredrik Nilsson working Red hot 7B+ at Källbergahygget.


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Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Volt 7B+


Volt 7B+ Fredrik Sydstrand
Fredrik Sydstrand climbing Volt 7B+ in Jumkil outside Uppsala.


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Monday, January 11, 2016

Billybob 7B, Uppsala


Billy Bob 7B
Staffan Wahlsten climbing Billybob 7B in Focksta.


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Thursday, December 31, 2015

2015

Another 365 days goes by and so it's time for me to put down some thoughts from the year. I almost forgot this little tradition of mine this time, as I did not reflect over the fact that a whole year already passed. Anyways, 2015 has been good. I enjoy everyday life in Stockholm, working as a routesetter. The possibilities there is for training is a major reason to why I really like it. It's been a great asset having all the well-maintained gyms around when trying to recover from the quiet severe finger injury I suffered last autumn.

Västervik September weekend 2015
In September I spent a weekend climbing in Västervik with my friends from Germany.
 
I spent most of the year climbing indoors, the first half focusing mainly on rehabilitating. I have come a long way from where I was a year ago, although there still is a long way to go. Carlos has given me great support and for that I'm extremely thankful. Without him I would probably still be injured.


The highlight of the year was off course the trip to the US with Said. There where many great experiences in cool places, and altough I climbed like shit, I still managed to drag my ass up some really awesome routes.

Said Belhaj

Said Belhaj Just do it 5.14c

Smith Rock, 
Oregon

I've put down some goals for myself for next year. It's been a while since I had those so it's about time, and I'm really looking forward to working towards achieving them. I'm hoping to travel a bit more, maybe go back across the Atlantic. But I also want to do more climbing around Stockholm and Uppsala (on rock that is). The few times I made it out since I moved there, I always spotted climbs that I really want to get on.

Castleton tower
Standing on top of Castleton tower was one of many great experiences from the autumn adventure in the US.

I always have a hard time dealing with how fast time is moving and I have to be careful not to put too much presure on myself to make things happen instantly. I think that having a strong will is a good quality, but focused in the wrong way it can be rather destructive. I'm constantly trying to be better at deciding where to focus my efforts to benefit from them, instead of letting my obstinacy make me counterproductive. A year ago I was actually not really sure if I wanted to do as much climbing any more. I could not enjoy it as my approach since several years, being way to focused on performance, had taken all the fun out of it. After getting that perspective and realizing that things had to change if I wanted to keep climbing, I started making some changes. This has by no means been easy, but seing how I seem to enjoy climbing more and more again, there is no doubts that I'm on the right track.

James & Arvid hits 
Orminge
Bouldering with friends (and colleagues) in Orminge outside Stockholm.


Happy new year!
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Saturday, December 19, 2015

Shoryuken 7C+/8A, Focksta


Fredrik Sydstrand Shoryuken 7C+/8A
Fredrik Sydstrand trying to figure out the beta for Stefan Eklund's latest addition to the bouldering around Uppsala, Shoryuken in Focksta.


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Thursday, December 17, 2015

Lucky pigeon 5.13c


Said Belhaj Lucky pigeon 5.13c

Said Belhaj Lucky pigeon 5.13c
Said having a go on Lucky pigeon 5.13c/8a+ in Aggro gully, Smith Rock.


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