Sunday, June 30, 2013

Audun at Åland


Audun putting on his fiveten's to enjoy some bouldering at Fågelberget.


Saturday, June 29, 2013

Zarzamora, Albarracin

Neil almost reaching all the way to the good hold, from which the standstart  
of Zarzamora is climbed.


Friday, June 28, 2013

Crapovsky, Fontainebleau

Jarmo bouncing away on Crapovsky 7A in Rocher des Demoiselles.


Thursday, June 27, 2013

An epic journey home

After having linked Moongoli in two halfs on my first session, I was keen to get back on it before it was time to leave Åland for now. So on our last day we went for an early start in order to get a couple of hours at Kasviken and still make it back to Mariehamn in time for our ferries departur. However, driving the 45 minutes from Eriks cabin to the crag, I could tell something was not right with my van. But pscyhed about my project, I choosed too ignore it. If only then I would have known that we would only make it to about five kilometers from the boulders. From there it took us two towings, before getting picked up in Mariestad (two hours away from home), where we had to leave the car at a garage in the middle of the night.

Photo: Victor Lindqvist.


 Photo: Victor Lindqvist.




Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Horse with no name 6A, Häller

Robert Rundin raising his feet on the problem formerly known as Okänd slab (Unknown slab).


Tuesday, June 25, 2013

The shark fin-feature





Thinking back at the climbs I did on Åland, Evätys at Kasviken definetly qualifies for being one of 
the best. The pictures above displays Erik leading the way to our teamsend.


Monday, June 24, 2013

Are you aware it's out - Out of sight

For those of you who missed, Neil's film has been released and can be downloaded here - Neil has also made a second teaser, which is displayed bellow...


Sunday, June 23, 2013

The church of Larchant


Early morning sun lighting up the church of Larchant.


Saturday, June 22, 2013

Skinny dipping




Hannes and Jocke giving up the idea of climbing in the prevailing heat and jumps in the water instead. An idea which I, due to the time of the year, assume solved their sweating-issues. For me, just watching them was enough to stop my hands from seeping.


Friday, June 21, 2013

Different choices in footwear


Victor and Henrik doing a problem in Häller which I don't know the name of. Henrik being the one too lazy to put on his climbingshoes.


Thursday, June 20, 2013

3 climbers, 2 betas



Maja, Erik and Stefan doing Sloupperidyno at Fågelberget, using two different methods.


Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Dogma 7A

Victor Lindqvist working Dogma in Häller. Photo: Henrik Hult.


Monday, June 17, 2013

The 40th anniversary of the Swedish climbing association

I was very happy to get to be a part of the celebrations of the Swedish climbing association's fortieth anniversary. Me and Robert where stationed in Häller to serve as inspirers and beta-banks for thoose who had come to climb. However, since it was the probably warmest day of the year so far, no one but us where dumb enough to even try climbing at the sundrenched crag and we ended up having to throw our beta and inspiration back and forth between eachother.

Robban getting his crackclimbing-skills on, doing Z-sprickan.

Me trying to escape the heat on Cuerpo the hombre, which even though it doesn't see any sun all day, 
still was to greasy for me to repeat it. Photo: Jonas Paulsson.


Sunday, June 16, 2013

Big Crotte, Bas Cuvier

I must say that I do not allways enjoy going to the slightly more tucked away problems of Bas Cuvier
This is due to what can be found on the ground beneath them. This pictures shows 
Henrik Sennelöv trying Big Grotte, one climb I would not ever try on a 
 late thursday night for example.


Saturday, June 15, 2013

Moby dick 7B+/7C

Guillame reaching out from the starting holds of Moby dick in Cuvier est.


Friday, June 14, 2013

En världsomsegling under havet, Lyse Kyrka

Photo: Fredrik Jutfelt

The other day, I did what I believe is the second ascent of this stunning climb at Lyse Kyrka. It was first put up by Henrik Sennelöv in the autumn of 2007. I tried it a couple of years ago, without coming anywhere near close and ever since then, I haven't been back. Until this weekend that is, when my visiting friend Geir and I went and had a play on it. I think what kept me from doing it already then was the warm, sunny weather making the crux-crimp to greasy for me to hold when doing the dyno to the arete.

Screenshot from Tuesdays filming.

After getting back from work earlier than usual on Tuesday afternoon, me and Victor decided to go climbing and Victor convinced me to go back to Lyse. On our way out, we where met by a cold front of clouds and winds coming in from the nearby ocean. A sight that filled me with hope and optimism. At location, after a couple of goes with long rest in between them in order to keep the skin cold, I stuck the crux-move for the first time and topped out En världsomsegling under havet.


Thursday, June 13, 2013

3-star highball




Anders Terlongo climbing a brilliant highball at Djupviksgrottorna. Can anyone fill me in with the name of the problem?


Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Steel pulse 7B, Åland


Erik sure didn't make the very physical gaston-move of Steel pulse, look anywhere near as hard as it 
really is when running laps up the brilliant Åland-boulderproblem.


Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Paskapäivä 8A, Geta



Fred working one of my dreamclimbs on Åland, Paskapäivä.


Monday, June 10, 2013

Hard work paying off



Erik struggling on the powerfull moves of Drakguld, only to come back and surpise himself when sending it on his next session a few weeks later.


Sunday, June 9, 2013

Voodoo 7A, Åland


Anders Terlongo working Voodoo at Djupviksgrottorna, Geta.