Thursday, December 20, 2012

Partage, Buthiers


2012-10-24FW-007
 Kook during an evening-play on Partage.

2012-10-24FW-005


/DO

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Christmas-break

Today I'm leaving Font to go home and see family and friends over Christmas. I am really looking forward to the holidays and to getting back to Sweden for a while. At the moment I am feeling pretty trashed, both physically and mentally, so I think a little break will do me good.

Overall this autumn has been great for me. I feel like I have moved forward as a climber. I may not be much stronger physically than I have been before, perhaps I'm even weaker, but mentally I have gained allot of strenght and I think my technique has improved a bit too. This despite the fact that I have been forced to more restdays than I would have wished for due to bad weather. At this point however, unlike before, I have learnt to except that when being on a long climbing-trip you will be dealing with times when the rain just pours down to heavy for it to be possible to climb, no matter how psyched you are.

I don't know how much climbing I will be doing until the 7th of january, when I'm returning to the forrest. I probably won't be posting as much stuff here on the blog, not to start with at least. I have learn't that it's good to, once in a while, relax my self from climbing completely, to recover both muscles and mind. I am still very psyched and excited to come back here in the beginning of next year, but until then I am just going to enjoy lazy days and off course, some christmas food!


/DO

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Froggy dick 7B


FotoredigeradFW-082
Henrik almost reaching all the way to the top of Froggy dick in Franchard Isatis.


/DO

Monday, December 17, 2012

Thriller 7C+


FotoredigeradFW-022

FotoredigeradFW-019
Thriller is an awesome, very tricky dyno located close to the start of the orange circuit in Rocher des Demoiselles. It was put up by Gérald Coste and Tony Fouchereau, and according to Bleau.info, it had not been climbed by anyone but them and Neil before I did it last weekend. The reason to that is probably that people don't know about it beeing there, but I hope the word about this cool problem will spread. Photos: Henrik Hult.


/DO

Sunday, December 16, 2012

Alternative beta


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-39
A french climber I don't know the name of reaching for an intermediate on Zarzamora...

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-43
...and Neil trying the same beta.


/DO

Saturday, December 15, 2012

Chasse en cours


FotoredigeradFW-013
I dont know any french, but based on experiences I'm guessing the sign says "Stay away or get shot".


/DO

Friday, December 14, 2012

Video - Another week in Albarracin

During the first week of November I went back to Albarracin with Neil and his son Thomas. We got five days climbing in good conditions, before a nasty rainweather rolled in and made us head back to Font a couple of days earlier than planned.

We decided in the car on the way down that we would try to film eachother as much as possible, something Neil stuck to and I didn't. The outcome of it all was me having loads of awesome footage of me climbing to use for this edit. All thanks to Neil, who also did allot of climbing, but without getting as much caught on camera for his video (Once again, sorry mate!)...




Featured problems:
Avalancha 7B - Mezquita/Colmenas
Thieves 7B+ - Psicokiller
Los Titiriteros 7A - Arrastradero
ACA-B8-L4 7B - Acantilados
Zarzamora 7C+ - Parking/Aeroline

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Camera:
Neil Hart
Daniel Olausson

Music:
Pretty lights - Hot like dimes


/DO

Thursday, December 13, 2012

Le Bivouac assis, Cuvier Est


FotoredigeradFW-027

FotoredigeradFW-030

FotoredigeradFW-032
These pictures shows the moves of Le Bivouac. When they where taken I was climbing the assis, which adds one big move from 
two crimps where the crux is to hold the swing. Photos: Henrik Hult.


/DO

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

A sur-prising send


FotoredigeradFW-076
It had bin years since the last time I tried Sur-prises when we arrived in Isatis last week, and remebering it being very hard I couldn't ever 
imagine climbing it in the prevailing conditions. However, I have surprised my self a few times lately, and I did again climbing this classic 
in just a few goes (Btw. Neil's legs has grown out of proportions lately, which is why he can rest his elbow on top of the boulder). 
Photo: Henrik Hult.


/DO

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Home, Rocher des Demoiselles


FotoredigeradFW-039
Working out the moves on Home in Demoiselles in terrible conditions. At first I thought that maybe I 
would be able to link it in spite of the lack of good friction, but soon realized that it wasn't going to 
happen and left it for another day... Photo: Henrik Hult.


/DO

Monday, December 10, 2012

Unknow Cuvier est-dyno


FotoredigeradFW-007
This could have been a good photo for a guessing-game. If only I knew the name of the problem 
which is located on the boulder next to La Digital in Cuvier est... Can anyone fill me in?


/DO

Sunday, December 9, 2012

De Vita Beata 8A


FotoredigeradFW-093

FotoredigeradFW-094
Me beeing exhausted after having tried the hard compression-moves on De Vita Beata 8A in Franchard Isatis. Photos: Henrik Hult.


/DO

Saturday, December 8, 2012

Atmosphère 7A


FotoredigeradFW-020
Henrik sending Atmosphère in Cuvier est.


/DO

Friday, December 7, 2012

Monos 7C(Stand)/8A


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-5
Neil working the moves on Monos in Psicokiller/Acantilados.


/DO

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Fredrik Schenholm - Äventyrsfotoboken‏

Min vän Fredrik Schenholm som sedan 2005 arbetat som professionell äventyrsfotograf och som vid flera tillfällen tagit bilder på mig, har precis släppt sin första bok - Äventyrsfotoboken‏. I den har jag den stora äran att synas på flera uppslag, något jag förstås är både stolt och glad över. Eftersom jag dessutom är väldigt intresserad av att fota, och ständigt försöker bättra på mina foto-skills, kan jag inte vänta på att få lägga vantarna på ett ex då jag är övertygad om att den kommer vara mycket läsvärd.

 _MG_0242

_MG_0249

Fredrik om boken: Boken följer mitt arbetsflöde i nio steg (kapitel). Bokens mål är att minska läsarens/fotografens turfaktor och ersätta det med kunskap. Det ska inte behövas 100 bilder för att få till en bra bild. Boken visar hur det går till att ta en äventyrsbild. Från att hitta rätt och inspirerande miljö till kompositionsidéer. Den går igenom kamerautrustningen och dess inställningar, tips hur man får bilderna skarpa och exponeringsteknik. Även tankar kring fotoögonblicket, bildbehandlingen samt vad man ska och inte ska göra vid bildförsäljning. Jag vill att boken ska inspirera folk att ta med kameran ut på sina äventyr.

Fotomagasinet "Kamera&Bild" har skrivit ett reportage om boken vilket finns att läsa här: Äventyrsfotografen ger sina bästa tips.

Köpa boken kan man göra i alla välsorterade outdoorbutiker och bokhandlare, eller direkt från förlaget: Calazo.se


/DO

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

L'Aérodynamite


FotoredigeradFW-099
Last week I managed to climb the Cuvier-classic, L'Aérodynamite. In the photo I am at the perhaps most crucial point of the climb, getting the 
toe in the pocket which is very difficult to see. Photo: Henrik Hult.


/DO

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Le Vin Rouge 7A+


FotoredigeradFW-031

FotoredigeradFW-028

FotoredigeradFW-030
My friend Henrik just left after visiting me for a week. Here he is firing Vin Rouge in 
Franchard Isatis.


/DO

Monday, December 3, 2012

Tribune 7B


2012-10-24FW-01348
Neil on his way up Tribune in Gorges du Houx Petit Paradis.


/DO

Sunday, December 2, 2012

Campsite cooking


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-28

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-20

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-25

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-23

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-27

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-22

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-21

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-26

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-24
Photos: Thomas Hart.


/DO

Saturday, December 1, 2012

Zarzamora stand 7A


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-35

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-36
Neil doing the stand-up start to Zarzamora in Sector Parking, Albarracin.


/DO

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Video - Back in Bleau

This video shows some of the problems I've climbed and filmed since I arrived here in Font in the end of September (unfortunately I don't get everything filmed, especially when Neil isn't around). I feel that I have really taken a step up in my climbing lately, something which I am very happy for. Partly because it's lead to me being able to do these climbs, some of them quicker than I would ever have thought. It's also made me feel confident enough to start trying harder problems. Hopefully I can keep going without injuries or other setbacks, and maybe get one or two of these ticked off...

I have got plenty of more footage, both from Font and Albarracin, so stay tuned for more videos to come and in the meantime, enjoy this!



Featured problems:

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Camera:
Daniel Olausson
Neil Hart

Music:
David Löhstana - Flairer la fesse


/DO

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

El ermitaño 7A+


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-0
Neil hitting the last bad old before the jug on El ermitaño in Sector Parking, Albarracin.


/DO

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Le Trou du Simon 6A, Bas Cuvier


Week1.För.internet-028
Nikolaj Wallgrenovic focused on grabbing the first sloper of Le Trou du Simon in a good spot.


/DO

Saturday, November 24, 2012

Monos 7C/8A, Albarracin


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-7
Don't think much needs to be said about this climb since it's kinda given away by the name...


/DO

Friday, November 23, 2012

Aeroline 7B, Albarracin


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-50

 AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-49
It´s all about Neil at the moment. Here he is about to send Aeroline in sector 
Parking/Aeroline on our last day of a week long trip to Spain.

/DO

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Rammstein 7B


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-1
Neil sending a cool, crimpy lowball in Arrastradero, Albarracin.


/DO

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Zarzamora, Albarracin


AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-46

AlbarracinOct-NovtripFW-44
Neil almost sticking the cruxmove of Zarzamora in Sector Parking/Aeroline, Albarracin.


/DO

Sunday, November 11, 2012

Recovery-drink


One thing I have learnt over the years with climbing is the importance of taking in 
carbs after training in order to help your body recover. The best way of doing 
so that I have stumbled upon so far, is Marcels, who after havning spent the day 
in Coquibus Roche qui Tourne went straight into Milly for a quick refill...


/DO

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Unknown problem, Buthiers


Week1.För.internet-057
Marcel topping out a unknown wall-climb in Buhiers.

Week1.För.internet-049


/DO

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

La Letrina direct 6C


För.internet-006
Helena about to send La Letrina direct in Sector Parking, Albarracin.


/DO