Tjing tjong 7C

Arvid Holmgren working Tjing tjong 7C in Orminge.

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James & Arvid hits Orminge

There are better days for climbing on slopy rails than the one Arvid Holmgren and James Thanawat chose to spend in Orminge a couple of weeks ago. In the photos they are struggling on Wong sai 7B+, which Arvid managed to repeat despite the 30 degrees in the shades.

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Video - 2 Font 7A's

I quite like editing, but not climbing or filming outdoors much in the last year, I have to dig deeper and deeper into my archives to find footage that I can play around with. In a dusty folder with stuff gathered during my trip to Fontainebleau in the spring of 2012, I found two problems filmed by Sandstones media which had not been used in any video. Not having much to do the other night, I put them together to make this short...

Featured problems:
Rababoum 7A, Manoury
la Joker 7A, Bas Cuvier

Climber in video:
Daniel Olausson

Edit:
Daniel Olausson

Camera:
Sandstones media

Music:
"Big easy" by Andreas Öhberg

Produced in association with:
Tierra.se
Revolutionclimbing.eu
Fiveten.com/
shop.boulderkeskus.com/en/
Lyofood.com/

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Erik vs. Tomi

Erik Massih climbing Tomis roof on Åland.

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Arnhem land, Solsidan

Danny Salata sticking the cruxmove of Arnhem land.

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Hero 7C+, Gävle

Regardless of the fact that Sydde had completely trashed himself working out the beta for The art of war, he could not stay away from giving the neighbooring-problem a shot before calling it a day. I thought he would'nt be able to move, but to my big surprise he managed to dig out just enough energy (or perhaps it should rather be called will power) to climb trough the crux on the short 7C+. Unfortunetely, that was as far as what ever it was moving him upwards, lasted. He fell of on the last move before the juggy toput.

Hero 7C+, Oppala.

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The art of Flodin & Hallman

Fredrik Sydstrand attempting The art of war 8A in Oppala, Gävle.

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Gävle on a Sunday afternoon

Last Sunday, Fredrik Sydstrand phoned me up and asked if I was keen on going out. As I have been injured all winter and just started climbing again, I've been sticking to climbing indoors. I feel that the risk of tearing my finger is smaller on plastic than on rock. At first I explained this to "Sydde" and headed for the gym. But as I stepped trough the door at Klättercentret, from the bright beautiful day it was, I realized that I could not miss out on a day like that. I turned around before I even got past the reception and as I did, I phoned Fredrik up. An hour later we where heading north, to Oppala in the city of Gävle. One of countless areas in connection to Stocholm that I have not yet visited (although the two hour drive makes it a bit to far to call it a Stockholm crag).

I was a bit worried that I would regret my decision, but fortunetely things turned out the other way around. Climbing on excellent rock in perfect conditions made me even more keen on training then I was before. I was reminded of why I'm spending many hours ever week rehabilitating, climbing circuits, doing core exercises and stretching. Hopefully if I keep it up, I will heal my wounds and maybe get in decent shape in time for the autumn!

Sydde was off course strong as allways. In the picture he is climbing Flygande kniven 7C.

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2013 Fontainebleau outtakes

Working with routesetting I often find myself thinking back on outdoor climbs I've been on with hopes of finding inspiration for what I'm about to set. The other day I was using this "tool" perhaps a bit too much. I started missing Font more than I've done in a long time. And as I think about this second home of mine pretty much every day, missing it more means missing it A LOT! When I got back home that night I immediately went on my computer and started looking at Font videos. After a while I ended up seeing some old clips of mine and then stumbled over some footage that I had not used. Since I had nothing better to do I put some of them together to make the short below.

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Turkish airlines

Tobias Haug climbing Turkish airlines 7c in Citdibi.

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Den näkna kocken ss 8A

A shot from last autumn that I took during one of those very rare occations when it was not raining. 
Fredrik Sydstrand trying Den näkna kocken ss in Simonstorp.

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Sunny side up

A few shots from a beautiful afternoon last week spent bouldering at Källbergahygget outside Uppsala. We have been blessed with amazing weather in the last two weeks and after a long dark winter, every second spent in the sun recharges you with energy. One can only wish for not having the face another raincloud until the autumn...

Sammy Dahlman flashing Cream 7B. One of Källberga's classic gems.

Rickard Sjöquist doing the reachy first move on his send of Städskrubben 7C+.

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